St. Maarten/St. Martin's Arts & Culture

by Melanie Reffes

A tropical paradise southeast of Puerto Rico and halfway down the chain of Leeward Islands, St. Maarten/St. Martin is a dual nationality island that's a quick hop from Anguilla and St. Barths. Dutch St. Maarten sizzles with shopping galore, casinos and dance clubs, while French St. Martin is a cornucopia of treasures, from art galleries to bookstores that sell Le Monde and Paris Match.

"There are very few places in this hemisphere with such a vibrant, multicultural society where things are constantly happening in music, literature, fine art, theater and dance," said Regina LaBega, director, St. Maarten Tourist Bureau.

Although each has its own distinctive personality, both sides seamlessly blend West Indian and African influences in a cosmopolitan mix unlike anywhere else on the planet. The visual artists salute the island through paintings, crafts, etchings, sculpture and prints, while award-winning authors express themselves through essays, novels, plays and poems. Musically, St. Maarten/St. Martin is a mélange of sounds guaranteed to keep you on your feet until the wee hours.

THE ARTISTS AND ARTISTES
Awarded the honor of Knight of the Orange Nassau — the highest award from the court of Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands — and easily recognized by his Leonardo da Vinciesque beard and hat with a wide brim, Sir Roland Richardson is a national treasure, aptly honored as the Father of Caribbean Impressionism, with a style that mirrors the plein air artists like Monet, Cézanne and Gauguin. His St. Maarten heritage dates back to the 1700s, and today he is credited with introducing the beauty of the Caribbean to the rest of the world with his images of the brilliant red blooms of the Flamboyant tree. "The purity of color in St. Maarten inspires me to create," he says.

Born in Aruba and living in St. Maarten for three decades, Ruby Bute's prolific career has earned her the reputation as the island's master storyteller. Her first volume, Golden Voices of S'maatin, was published by House of Nehesi Publishers on St. Martin's Day, November 11, 1989. Her paintings immortalize the pulsating traditions of the Caribbean.

Donating some of her proceeds to charities like Blue Moon, which helps AIDS patients, and the homeless shelter Manteau de St. Martin, Dona Bryhiel is not only a renowned painter but also an appreciated philanthropist. Born in Marseille, her portraits of Caribbean women and depictions of the pelicans of Oyster Pond reflect her adoration of St. Maarten.

Also tucked away in Oyster Pond, ceramist Marie Moine can be found in her studio firing up and painting her distinctive line of earthenware. After a lifetime of sailing, she settled in St. Maarten, honing her skills as a ceramist. Today she uses natural pigments to create exquisitely detailed images on plates, boxes and bowls.

For Francis Eck, the crystal-clear sea and the endless horizon are a source of spiritual and creative inspiration. Having moved from Alsace, France to St. Maarten/St. Martin 20 years ago, this abstract painter, who says meditating in his hammock is a favorite pastime, uses a palette knife and bold primary colors like red and blue to create his impressive works.

Defining herself as an "observer of nature," jewelry designer Tessa Urbanowicz combines coconut fibers, seeds and seashells with pewter, gold and precious stones to create striking necklaces and bracelets sold in her Front Street boutique.

Another observer of nature and of the human spirit is Joe Dominique. A former BBC reporter, he first burst onto the St. Maarten/St. Martin arts scene in 2000, exhibiting 50 works in acrylic, pastel and charcoal. His works convey a profound proficiency in his craft as viewers become one with the art, immersed in Dominique's dabs and wiggles of media that weave into his creative lines.

SHOWING OFF: THE GALLERIES
Multicultural St. Maarten/St. Martin is no better represented than in the Ikemba African Art Gallery on Front Street. Nigerian-born owner Michael Maghiro stocks this popular gallery with masks, furniture crafted from metal, ebony sculptures and colorful hand-woven clothing.

The husband and wife team of Patricia and Deny Ramsami love to chat with tourists browsing at their Front Street art gallery. From watercolor to wood inlay, Le Saint-Geran showcases the work of more than 50 artists. "We only sell originals and have an inventory of more than 200 pieces," says Deny as he gives an art aficionado a tour around the gallery.

In the heart of the action on Front Street, the Dutch Delft Blue Gallery is not to be missed by those who admire the traditional hand-painted Delftware from Holland. The only authentic Delft gallery in the Caribbean, this shop/gallery is brimming with the white-and-blue Delftware. "The most valuable piece we have is a 1923 plate that was made in honor of Queen Wilamena," says Falo Oosdburg, owner. "It's not for sale, but if you really like it, I might consider an offer."

From Star Wars to St. Maarten, Planet Paradise is a unique gallery owned by Nick Maley, a Hollywood special effects wizard who created Yoda, the little green puppet with the big eyes and pointed ears. The gallery is also the workshop for this self-proclaimed Yoda Guy who delights in showing off his authentic Star Wars memorabilia. "The movie changed my life forever," says the cherubic creature-builder. "But I still prefer simple living in the Caribbean."

In front of the Sonesta Resort in Maho, the Minguet Art Gallery immortalizes the work of the late artist Alexandre Minguet with an extensive collection of his Expressionist work including paintings, lithographs, posters and postcards.

Boasting the largest collection of Haitian art in the world, the Gingerbread Galerie is a candy store of Creole color. In the Marina Royale in Marigot, the gallery showcases work that traces the history of Haitian art through scenes of gritty street life, voodoo mysteries and stunning scenery.

In Grand Case on the northeast tip of the French side, L'Atelier des Tropismes is a chic gallery run by three artists, including Paul Elliott Thuleau, revered for his Impressionist paintings of Creole homesteads; Nathalie Lepine, known for her Modigliani-influenced style; and Patrick Poivre de La Freta, who studied with Salvador Dalí.

THE STROKE OF THE PEN: THE WRITTEN WORD
Although humble, Lasana Mwanza Sekou is respected as a brilliant poet, storyteller, author and publisher. His literary contributions to St. Maarten/St. Martin were rewarded with the 2007 Caribbean Tourism Organization Award of Excellence. The co-founder of House of Nehesi Publishers, Sekou has written 13 books himself. These include 37 Poems, his most recent collection reflecting the 37 square miles of St. Maarten, which he authored while in China as a visiting fellow at Asia's first International Writers Workshop.

Nicknamed the "Philosopher of Humor," Fernando Clark is a funny guy who started making people laugh as a young teenager in Aruba. Today, he's a mainstay at Carnival, has recorded comedy CDs and pops up at island clubs.

Born in Nigeria, Fabian Badejo is a multimedia jack-of-all-trades. The former African diplomat has written extensively on current affairs, has produced shows by the Mighty Dow, directed one-man shows by Fernando Clark and Paul Keens Douglas and still finds time to host a radio talk show.

Masquerade was the first play Guyanese-born Ian Valz wrote, and today his story of a poor family immigrating to the United States is still being performed. Respected as the undisputed champion of the local drama scene, his recent work, The Peacock Dance, tells the story of a group of islanders living in the same backyard. Starring a cast of veteran actors, this comedy about hope and promise continues to wow audiences at every performance.

THE SONGBIRDS
In matching colorful shirts and straw hats, Tanny & the Boys are the premier string band in the Eastern Caribbean. With fans young and old, these golden age musicians have also entertained royalty like Queen Beatrix of The Netherlands. Performing festive tunes rooted in island tradition, their get-up-on-your-feet blend of merengue, calypso, bolero and blues has kept them in the spotlight for three decades.

Another performer melting the blues and calypso genres together is Leroy Brooks. Known today as King Beau Beau, this versatile entertainer grew up listening to the Mighty Sparrow and Otis Redding, but stuck to the only music that could make him move — calypso. Joined by his dance troupe, The Bobettes, he is a master of the local restaurant and hotel circuit.

At Cheri's Café, the retro-music sounds of Sweet Chocolat keep the crowd dancing with cover versions of hits by Earth, Wind & Fire and the Village People.

A smash hit at the Heineken Regatta, Connis Vanterpool's inspiration comes from jazz icons like Miles Davis and Charlie Parker. The "saxiest" horn player in St. Maarten/St. Martin, he is also one of the most sought-after performers in the region.

Hearing his first piano notes at age 4 in his native Brazil, Eduardo Filho puts his sultry jazzy stamp on all rhythms Latino. In 1980, he discovered St. Maarten/St. Martin where he opened the island's first music school and still teaches the younger set the rhythm of the bossa nova.

He calls himself The Mighty Dow and has dedicated his musical career to the steel pan tradition, which he learned from his father Pan Maestro Chester York. With 10 hit recordings under his belt, The Mighty Dow and his Ebony Steel Orchestra Foundation teach steel pan to young people.

And if it's Tuesday, it must be Harmony Nights in Grand Case. From January to May, a spirited street party stretches from Il Nettuno to the Rainbow Café with drummers, dancers and street vendors galore

A Regal Portrait

By Alita Singh

"She is a very calm person who loves her people," renowned local painter Cynric Griffith said of Her Majesty Queen Beatrix of The Netherlands. Beatrix has been queen regnant of the Dutch Kingdom, which includes St. Martin/St. Maarten, since April 29, 1980, when her mother, the late Queen Juliana, abdicated.

Griffith and internationally recognized local artist, Ras Mosera, captured Queen Beatrix on canvas, translating photographs into paintings, in 2001. The portraits were in honor of the Queen's visit here as part of her Dutch Caribbean tour.

Griffith's paintings reflect his serenity and vibrancy. Mosera's work challenges the status quo, provoking heated debates by tackling colonialism, slavery and the Caribbean's obsession with absorbing the outside world.

In their paintings, the artists unknowingly reversed roles: Griffith's evokes shock and awe, with the Queen's features slightly distorted. Mosera's takes the more conventional path.

Mosera, who met the Queen twice, believes he made a lasting impression. "I was waiting to meet her the second time and my eyes locked with hers. There was this look and I knew I was not just another face, another blur in the sea of people she has met."

The paintings, now owned by local collector/historian Jose Speetjens, unintentionally reflect the island's link with its monarch. Some residents embrace the Queen and the island's ties to the Dutch Kingdom. Others want independence.

As the Dutch side prepares to become a country within the kingdom, the monarchy will become closer to the people, providing direct links with The Netherlands while permitting autonomy.

Like Mosera's portrait, the island will be closer to the monarchy than it has been since the Dutch settled here in the 1600s; but like Griffith's, it will have a different kind of distance created by more independence.

Ras Mosera
"In my younger days as a budding Rastafarian, I came across the name Mosera, which means togetherness in Hebrew, and it stuck." Born in St. Lucia with time spent in Guadeloupe, Ras Mosera is one of the most celebrated artists on St. Maarten/St. Martin. The self-taught Expressionist painter not only depicts the island the way he sees it in works like Five Wise Virgins and Domino Players, but he also owns the bohemian Axum Jazz Café in Philipsburg. "My wife was a law student from St. Martin and the reason I came here," he says, surveying the nooks and crannies in his café that are homey perches for his paintings. "But honestly, St. Martin has been good to me as a gateway to multiple worlds."

Working in oil, watercolor and acrylic, Mosera is the acme of the island's artists. "I try to paint in a global way but with a Caribbean perspective." When he's not creating on canvas, Mosera — easily recognized by his long salt-and-pepper dreadlocks — hangs out in his café on Front Street. "I will not say I have a jazz background; maybe a jazzy mind."

His musical influences range from reggae to jazz and can be heard on The Voodoo You Do, a CD he recorded with musician La Vaune Henry. His whimsical paintings fetch up to $10,000 and hang in private collections, galleries and museums.

Antoine Chapon
From his picturesque home overlooking Baie de Cul-de-Sac, Antoine Chapon interprets the Caribbean landscape with delicate watercolors and oils. Born in Bordeaux, he set sail for the Caribbean in 1980 and has since called the tropics home. "I was a photographer in France," he says, gazing at the waves below his window. "But I had a deep feeling to change my lifestyle and live closer to nature."

The island suits his temperament and provides endless inspiration for his work. "Many artists are attracted to St. Martin because of its melting pot and cultural diversity," he says with an elegant French accent. "Seascapes are my biggest inspiration, but I also enjoy studying the dry vegetation along the coast."

Art is a family affair for Chapon, whose wife assists with the frames. His two teenagers, two cats, one dog and 50 sugar birds provide a lively backdrop for his creativity. "Depending on my mood, my work is either abstract or figurative, but the one constant is the inspiration I get from the sea."

Some of his serene reflections of the water are named Rendez-vous Bay, Plage du Galion, and Marigot Morning, and his most popular painting is Robot on the Water. Tourists are welcome to drop by to see him working in his studio. "Visitors always appreciate the relaxing and dreamy style of my work."

Book Fair
Founded in 2003 by the Conscious Lyrics Foundation and House of Nehesi Publishers, the St. Maarten/St. Martin Book Fair is one of the must-see events on the island. Held every June alternately on both sides of the island, the fair attracts bookworms who come for three days of readings, workshops and a chance to meet dozens of authors from around the world. "A record five new books will be released for the first time this year," says coordinator Shujah Reiph, referring to the 2007 event.

Amongst the new crop is Brother Rich, Nana Sweetie — an anthology of short stories, vignettes and poems written by 13 aspiring writers who took part in the House of Nehesi Creative Writing Program. "As its editor," says Rhoda Arrindell, "I am honored to be selected by the Book Fair to represent St. Martin writers." According to Reiph, the event is now gaining the recognition it deserves. "This year we were contacted by tourists from New York and Puerto Rico who are coming in just for the Book Fair," he says proudly. "News about our cultural event is growing here at home and abroad."

Visit www.houseofnehesipublish.com for information on the St. Martin Book Fair 2008.

Steel Pan
One of Trinidad's most treasured traditions, the sounds of the steel pan arrived on St. Maarten/St. Martin in the mid-20th century. It's considered the only acoustic instrument invented in modern times, and contemporary steel bands use 10 different drums to create a range of scales similar to that of a grand piano.

Influenced by the descendants of African slaves who had a history of drum-based rhythms, the evolution of the steel pan began with the rowdy celebrations during Carnival. After animal skin and bamboo drums were banned, steel oil drums were used and from the single note drum, other pans were created that could play full scales.

The steel pan tradition is alive and well on the island, with many musicians incorporating the distinct sound into their repertoire, like Chester York, known around town as "The Steel Pan Man." Full of boundless energy, he's been playing since he was 13, and today—along with his sons Neville York and the Mighty Dow—he continues to wow locals and tourists alike.

Carnival
There's no denying it — if you haven't experienced a Carnival, you haven't lived the Caribbean. On the Dutch side, the Carnival kicks off in April with 17 days of parades, jump-ups, concerts, pageants and a Carnival Village, where a sampling of spicy food can be savored. Thousands line the four-mile-long parade route jumping and jamming on the streets of Philipsburg as flamboyantly costumed revelers, magicians and musicians entertain in true Carnival spirit.

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