St. Maarten/St. Martin's Arts & Culture

by Melanie Reffes

Ringed by 37 footprint-in-the-sand beaches, St. Maarten/St. Martin is teased by gentle trade winds and sun-drenched temperatures, and bustles with sizzling nightlife, galleries galore and an impressive array of artists, musicians and storytellers. A sophisticated yet laid-back slice of tropical life, this island paradise also reflects a cultural mosaic seen nowhere else in the world.

THE ARTISTS AND ARTISTES
Honored as the Father of Caribbean Impressionism, Sir Roland Richardson's St. Martin heritage dates back to the 1700s. His plein air style mirrors Monet, Cézanne and Gauguin, and has earned him legions of admirers. With a paintbrush and palette, he depicts the pastoral land of the Quartier d'Orleans with its ruby-hued flamboyant trees, verdant fields and sensual sunsets. Awarded the honor of Knight of the Orange Nassau and easily recognized by his Leonardo da Vinci-like beard and wide-brimmed hat, Sir Roland and his wife, Laura, graciously welcome guests to their 19th-century Creole gallery with its picturesque courtyard and garden.

Painting since age 6, it was not until decades later that Ruby Bute would hold her first solo exhibition. Her oil paintings of hibiscus flowers, carnival, island women and landscapes have earned her accolades for nearly half a century. Considered one of the four leading painters in St. Maarten/St. Martin, she works in her gallery that doubles as a classroom for young artists. She is also the first woman in St. Maarten/St. Martin with a book to her credit, Golden Voices of S'maatin, published by House of Nehesi.

Ras Mosera is a bold contemporary expressionist, and his work is sought by museums, galleries and collectors worldwide. Painting in acrylic, oil and watercolor, his work includes the radiant Woman with Golden Apples and Dancing with Fireflies, speckled with striking greens, blues and yellows. "Some of my paintings are controversial; some are sweet. This is just the way I work," he says while showing fans around his Axum Art Café on Front Street. In addition to exhibiting his own work, Mosera also opens the space to musicians, reggae storytellers and poets.

Born in Marseille, Dona Bryhiel is inspired by both France and her adopted St. Maarten/St. Martin. Her oil paintings of vividly colored animals, like the Gizmo parrot and the pelicans of Oyster Pond, and her depictions of strong Caribbean women are her artistic signatures. She is also a philanthropist and donates to AIDS patients and the homeless shelter Manteau de St. Martin.

Nestled in Oyster Pond, Marie Moine's unique line of ceramics is the star attraction in her studio, Les Exotiques. Adhering to a centuries-old technique, bowls, boxes and plates get soaked in an enamel bath before the designs are carefully painted by hand and then fired overnight at extremely high temperatures. Her most popular series include "Sea Birds," with their snow-white feathers, and "Pelicans," set in an Antillean village framed by the turquoise sea.

At the Art Box in Simpson Bay, Zdenka Kiric creates inimitable designs from precious metals and gemstones. Inspired by the underwater world, this Croatian-born artist crafts bracelets with tiny seahorses, and wire sculptures of boats and bicycles.

Originally from South Africa, Hans Meevis is an artist jeweler and master goldsmith. At his studio in Simpson Bay, he works with larimar stones and ebony to fashion one-of-a-kind designs, including dolphin rings and titanium disks with white gold maps of St. Maarten. "I am very fortunate to be surrounded by the shifting colors of the Caribbean Sea, which always brightens my day," he says. The entrepreneurial artist also remodels old wedding rings. "There is a big market in creating new memories from sentimental pieces of jewelry."

An abstract painter, Francis Eck draws on the sea and the endless horizon for his distinctive work. He is originally from Alsace, France, where he was awarded the prestigious Grand Prix Rubens award, and his landscapes and seascapes are collected by art aficionados throughout the Caribbean and Europe.

A stylistic counterpart to the abstract art of Francis Eck, Bordeaux-born Antoine Chapon interprets the serenity of the sea with oils and watercolors. From his studio overlooking the Baie de Cul-De-Sac, he depicts the ocean in his paintings Rendez-vous Bay and Robot on the Water.

A graduate of the Art School in Toulouse, France, Alain Chayer is an eclectic artist whose observations of nature are reflected through his photographs, paintings, drawings and sculptures. Created with gold and oil on canvas, Genese comes with a price tag of $10,605, while his portraits of the women he calls Carla, Carmen and Camilla fetch between $2,000 and $4,000 each.

SHOWING OFF: THE GALLERIES

From paintings to wood inlay, Le Saint-Geran Gallery showcases more than 50 artists. Originally from Mauritius, Patricia and Deny Ramsami amass works from the entire Caribbean. "Collectors from as far away as Japan and Switzerland are so impressed viewing the work of St. Maarten's artists," Deny says while showing a buyer Alain Chayer's Salt Pond with Egrets, created from sand set on canvas.

Owned by sculptor Michael Maghiro, Ikemba African Art Gallery is chock-full of masks, black ebony ornaments, drums, handwoven clothing and furniture crafted by Maghiro from omo wood indigenous to his native Nigeria.

In the Royal Palm Plaza, the Mazel Art Gallery spotlights locally and internationally celebrated artists. Born in Trinidad, Mazel grew up on a coffee-and-cocoa estate, where she nurtured her own artistic talent. Catering to the sophisticated art market, her gallery is a must-see on every art tour of the island.

Family and friends were shocked when Nick Maley swapped a Ferrari in England for a sailboat in the Caribbean. More than two decades later, the special-effects creature-builder (aka The Yoda Guy) for the Star Wars films (he created the little green puppet with the big eyes and pointed ears) can be found in his Planet Paradise Gallery and Museum. "Our exhibits tell the inside story of Star Wars, like the six people who operated Yoda and the five folks who played Darth Vader."

In Maho, Minguet Art Gallery immortalizes the work of the late artist Alexandre Minguet with an extensive collection of his expressionist work, including paintings, lithographs, posters and postcards.

The Gingerbread Galerie in the Marina Royale in Marigot boasts the most extensive collection of Haitian art in the world. A cornucopia of Creole history, the gallery exhibits powerful Haitian art by modern masters and intuitive artists.

In Grand Case, Atelier des Tropismes is the creative space for a trio of artists. Patrick Poivre de la Fréta studied with Salvador Dalí and portrays the Caribbean through the eyes of a sailor; Paul Elliott Thuleau paints brilliant Caribbean architectural facades; and Nathalie Lépine's Modigliani-inspired portraits of women are haunting and contemplative.

STORYTELLERS
Respected as a brilliant poet, essayist and publisher, Lasana Mwanza Sekou is a literary powerhouse. As co-founder of House of Nehesi Publishers, with a roster of more than 30 authors, Sekou is a champion of the arts on both sides of the island. "Caribbean writers are world-class," he notes while holding court at the Holland House bar. "This new generation is hungry for recognition, which today is a realistic goal." Sekou has written 13 books, including 37 Poems and The Salt Reaper, the latter having a powerful message of island independence. In addition, Sekou mentors young authors and is the project manager for the HNP nonprofit foundation, which organizes the Book Fair held alternately on both sides of the island in June.

Tickling funny bones as a teenager in Aruba, Fernando Clark was persuaded to earn a living as a comic when he moved to St. Maarten. "I was always the life of the party," he says from his desk in the RBTT bank, where he works during the day. With influences ranging from Eddie Murphy to Bob Hope, the self-proclaimed Philosopher of Humor hosts TV shows, entertains during Carnival, records comedy CDs and opens for giants like Bill Cosby and the Mighty Sparrow.

A multimedia entrepreneur, former Nigerian diplomat Fabian Adekunle Badejo is a writer, concert producer, director and radio host. His essay collection Salted Tongues has earned him prestigious accolades, and his scholarly research on the literature of St. Maarten has been presented throughout the Caribbean.

Included in Badejo's research is another notable islander, Drisana Deborah Jack, who has recited her poetry in festivals throughout North America and published her second collection of poems, Skin, in 2006. She is assistant art professor at New Jersey City University.

Taking top honors in the narrative category of the 2008 Hollywood Black Film Festival, Ian Valz's film Panman, Rhythms of the Palms is St. Maarten's first feature film, and tells the story of a pan player whose personal life suffers when he places his music above his family. A graduate of the Theatre Guild of Guyana, Valz has been a mainstay on the drama horizon for 25 years. Masquerade, his first book, containing a three-act play about a family emigrating to the United States, continues to be performed to rave reviews.

IT'S PARTY TIME
Every Tuesday night from January through April, Grand Case Village comes alive with Harmony Nights—packed full of street entertainment, music and primo people watching.

For two weeks in February on the French side, and for 17 days in April on the Dutch side, it's all about the Carnival and partying till the sun comes up. Bands keep the crowd groovin' during the early morning street parade called J'ouvert. The grand parade is full of flamboyantly costumed dancers, musicians and magicians jamming and jumping to the sizzling rhythms of soca and calypso. The Carnival Village dishes up spicy island food, more music and partying until the last person leaves.
www.stmaartencarnival.com

Hundreds of sailors and music fans arrive in March for the Heineken Regatta. One of the world's most prestigious sailing events, the Regatta also books top-notch musicians who perform in the yacht clubs, island parks and on the boats that participate in the challenge.
www.heinekenregatta.com

Also in March, Art Lovers weekend is a potpourri of galleries and studios open to the public.
www.artlovers-sxm.com.

The Message In The Music
Undisputed Royalty of the Steel Pan, the York family has been playing pan for decades. Learning from his famous father, Chester York, Isidore, better known as the Mighty Dow, has 10 recordings under his musical belt. With his Ebony Steel Orchestra Foundation, he also teaches pan to young musicians. Playing with his brother, Neville, they keep crowds on their feet with their infectious tropical rhythms.

Featuring Isidore York, Connis Vanterpool's Unity CD is a sultry mix of funk, jazz and reggae. The "saxi-est" horn player in St. Maarten, he performs with Blues Inc. at Pineapple Pete's in Simpson Bay.

Remembering calypso as the beat that brought out the dance in him, King Beau Beau was born Leroy Brooks and grew up grooving to the kaiso sounds of the Mighty Sparrow. Today, the reigning Calypso King and his Beaubettes keep fans gyrating at the Oyster Bay Beach Resort.

Anastacia Larmonie shines with her own brand of jazz, soul, funk and folk. A pianist and vocalist, she has accompanied Blue Note singer Denise Jannah and Grammy winner Nestor Torres. "I love to improvise," she says. "I never perform a melody as it is written. I mold it into my own essence that gives it the Anastacia twist." The First Lady of Music is also the creative force behind the children's Qualichi Voices choir and teaches voice and piano to the younger set.

Chester York — St. Maarten's Panman
Chester Alexander York was born in 1944 in a sleepy village overlooking the salt marshes of Philipsburg. Thirteen years later in Trinidad, Winston Spree Simon started making music from steel pan drums. Inspired by the pulsating rhythms of the pan, young Chester joined the Jungle Sparrows, the village steel band that practiced under the tamarind tree. By the early '70s, he was the leader of the Pott Steelers, and the rest, as they say, is musical history. Fifty years later, Chester York is fondly called the Father of Pan—and the subject of the aptly titled book Chester York — Making of a Panman.

A Regal Portrait

By Alita Singh

"She is a very calm person who loves her people," renowned local painter Cynric Griffith said of Her Majesty Queen Beatrix of The Netherlands. Beatrix has been queen regnant of the Dutch Kingdom, which includes St. Martin/St. Maarten, since April 29, 1980, when her mother, the late Queen Juliana, abdicated.

Griffith and internationally recognized local artist, Ras Mosera, captured Queen Beatrix on canvas, translating photographs into paintings, in 2001. The portraits were in honor of the Queen's visit here as part of her Dutch Caribbean tour.

Griffith's paintings reflect his serenity and vibrancy. Mosera's work challenges the status quo, provoking heated debates by tackling colonialism, slavery and the Caribbean's obsession with absorbing the outside world.

In their paintings, the artists unknowingly reversed roles: Griffith's evokes shock and awe, with the Queen's features slightly distorted. Mosera's takes the more conventional path.

Mosera, who met the Queen twice, believes he made a lasting impression. "I was waiting to meet her the second time and my eyes locked with hers. There was this look and I knew I was not just another face, another blur in the sea of people she has met."

The paintings, now owned by local collector/historian Jose Speetjens, unintentionally reflect the island's link with its monarch. Some residents embrace the Queen and the island's ties to the Dutch Kingdom. Others want independence.

As the Dutch side prepares to become a country within the kingdom, the monarchy will become closer to the people, providing direct links with The Netherlands while permitting autonomy.

Like Mosera's portrait, the island will be closer to the monarchy than it has been since the Dutch settled here in the 1600s; but like Griffith's, it will have a different kind of distance created by more independence.

Ras Mosera
"In my younger days as a budding Rastafarian, I came across the name Mosera, which means togetherness in Hebrew, and it stuck." Born in St. Lucia with time spent in Guadeloupe, Ras Mosera is one of the most celebrated artists on St. Maarten/St. Martin. The self-taught Expressionist painter not only depicts the island the way he sees it in works like Five Wise Virgins and Domino Players, but he also owns the bohemian Axum Jazz Café in Philipsburg. "My wife was a law student from St. Martin and the reason I came here," he says, surveying the nooks and crannies in his café that are homey perches for his paintings. "But honestly, St. Martin has been good to me as a gateway to multiple worlds."

Working in oil, watercolor and acrylic, Mosera is the acme of the island's artists. "I try to paint in a global way but with a Caribbean perspective." When he's not creating on canvas, Mosera — easily recognized by his long salt-and-pepper dreadlocks — hangs out in his café on Front Street. "I will not say I have a jazz background; maybe a jazzy mind."

His musical influences range from reggae to jazz and can be heard on The Voodoo You Do, a CD he recorded with musician La Vaune Henry. His whimsical paintings fetch up to $10,000 and hang in private collections, galleries and museums.

Antoine Chapon
From his picturesque home overlooking Baie de Cul-de-Sac, Antoine Chapon interprets the Caribbean landscape with delicate watercolors and oils. Born in Bordeaux, he set sail for the Caribbean in 1980 and has since called the tropics home. "I was a photographer in France," he says, gazing at the waves below his window. "But I had a deep feeling to change my lifestyle and live closer to nature."

The island suits his temperament and provides endless inspiration for his work. "Many artists are attracted to St. Martin because of its melting pot and cultural diversity," he says with an elegant French accent. "Seascapes are my biggest inspiration, but I also enjoy studying the dry vegetation along the coast."

Art is a family affair for Chapon, whose wife assists with the frames. His two teenagers, two cats, one dog and 50 sugar birds provide a lively backdrop for his creativity. "Depending on my mood, my work is either abstract or figurative, but the one constant is the inspiration I get from the sea."

Some of his serene reflections of the water are named Rendez-vous Bay, Plage du Galion, and Marigot Morning, and his most popular painting is Robot on the Water. Tourists are welcome to drop by to see him working in his studio. "Visitors always appreciate the relaxing and dreamy style of my work."

Book Fair
Founded in 2003 by the Conscious Lyrics Foundation and House of Nehesi Publishers, the St. Maarten/St. Martin Book Fair is one of the must-see events on the island. Held every June alternately on both sides of the island, the fair attracts bookworms who come for three days of readings, workshops and a chance to meet dozens of authors from around the world. "A record five new books will be released for the first time this year," says coordinator Shujah Reiph, referring to the 2007 event.

Amongst the new crop is Brother Rich, Nana Sweetie — an anthology of short stories, vignettes and poems written by 13 aspiring writers who took part in the House of Nehesi Creative Writing Program. "As its editor," says Rhoda Arrindell, "I am honored to be selected by the Book Fair to represent St. Martin writers." According to Reiph, the event is now gaining the recognition it deserves. "This year we were contacted by tourists from New York and Puerto Rico who are coming in just for the Book Fair," he says proudly. "News about our cultural event is growing here at home and abroad."

Visit www.houseofnehesipublish.com for information on the St. Martin Book Fair 2008.

Steel Pan
One of Trinidad's most treasured traditions, the sounds of the steel pan arrived on St. Maarten/St. Martin in the mid-20th century. It's considered the only acoustic instrument invented in modern times, and contemporary steel bands use 10 different drums to create a range of scales similar to that of a grand piano.

Influenced by the descendants of African slaves who had a history of drum-based rhythms, the evolution of the steel pan began with the rowdy celebrations during Carnival. After animal skin and bamboo drums were banned, steel oil drums were used and from the single note drum, other pans were created that could play full scales.

The steel pan tradition is alive and well on the island, with many musicians incorporating the distinct sound into their repertoire, like Chester York, known around town as "The Steel Pan Man." Full of boundless energy, he's been playing since he was 13, and today—along with his sons Neville York and the Mighty Dow—he continues to wow locals and tourists alike.

Carnival
There's no denying it — if you haven't experienced a Carnival, you haven't lived the Caribbean. On the Dutch side, the Carnival kicks off in April with 17 days of parades, jump-ups, concerts, pageants and a Carnival Village, where a sampling of spicy food can be savored. Thousands line the four-mile-long parade route jumping and jamming on the streets of Philipsburg as flamboyantly costumed revelers, magicians and musicians entertain in true Carnival spirit.

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On your tour around the island, sample the island's cuisine. Use our restaurant guide to help plan as well as a handy guide to activities and sights here.